Blackburn

Thursday, 24 January 2013

Tour Divide 2013 - Gear Changes

Now that the 2012 race blog entries are finally complete, I can move on to the 2013.  I learned a lot about the race and myself last year and have decided to make a few changes to my set-up.  First the bike:

Having wheels built:

Stans Arc rims.
DT Swiss 240 hubs
Trying the WTB Nano's (going tubeless but using the regular tire, easier to get on)

Going with a Shimano Pro rigid carbon fork.  Had my suspension locked out last year most of the time.  When I had it on I was hitting my luggage in the front.  I think the weight saving is worth it. 

Getting a new frame bag from Scott at Porcelain Rocket with a 3L  bladder on the top section. 
Trying to eliminate taking a back pack

Avid BB7 mechanical brakes.  switching from the hydraulics.  Had problem after a crash last year.  needed a bleed kit which I didn't bring and do not want to carry. 

Other Gear Changes:

Z pack sleeping bag.  Lightest warmest I can find with good reviews

Likely the Gore Phantom Rain jacket with removable sleeves

Garmin Etrek 30  - takes AA batteries.  Best way to go.  I got stuck waiting to charge things last year.

Shoes TDB

Rain pants debatable

Gore socks.

A string to tie my mittens together in my coat.  Lost two pairs last year :)

Wednesday, 23 January 2013

Tour Divide 2012 - Day 5-10

Lets see if I can end my 2012 journey in one post.  Need to start looking ahead to 2013. 

Sputter, sputter, stop, repeat seemed to be the theme of my last few days on the divide and ultimately I decided I was heading for 32 days at this pace and I did not have that much time to spend out here with family and work obligations.  Butte seemed to be the last town that was easy to get home from so in the end I decided to save my knowledge, time, budget, equipment and the sanity then bury my ego and pride to focus on a solid run in 2013, and bailed in Butte.  I wasn't interested in "touring" and I wanted to finish in a competitive time.  it really sincerely hurt, almost physically, to quit but I think it was the right call, even in hindsight.  So here are the last few days...

Day 5


Pain, really bad.  Made it up the hill to breakfast where I think I ate everything on the menu.  Then across to the gas station where I found Adam and crew stocking up.  It was nice to start out with someone.  Again, knees were bad!  a few miles in my "braving the pain" was wearing out and I fell back a little from the others.  As I did I noticed Adam had dropped his map, and as he was within screaming distance I yelled ahead.  When I handed him the map I told him that I found one of my booties on the road the night before.  His friend then informed me that he had the other.  He had picked them up in Elkford and then lost the one I found last night.  Weird.  Happy for the bootie reunion, we continued chatting and I mentioned my knee pain and told them I may have to quit.  He noticed my seat height and recommended changing it.  I was overjoyed to receive this bit of help and very embarrassed that my lack of experience was being exposed on something I felt every rider should know.  I defaulted to the joyous emotion when I noticed instant relief as I started riding again.  I lived to ride another day.  Thanks for losing your map Adam!

After about 30 miles I hit Ferndale then headed of route toward Bigfork. The seat adjustment was helpful but I decided that I needed to let my knees recover a bit so I took a room at Timbres Motel.  Hated taking a short day but I thought at that time that I could make up a day of riding given a little recovery.  Did laundry, slept, iced the knees and found a brand new bike shop that had just opened the day before.  Montana Adventure Sports.  I really needed that shop too.  I had been riding with out a computer and needed some brake adjustment.  So happy to have found a computer. One less stress when I can actually use the map cues now.    2013, I am downloading the GPS track!

Day 6

Some nice pavement to start out with and then another climb.  I walked a bit to help the legs that were feeling mildly improved.  My mood was good until the rain started messing with me again.  Rain, gear on, stop raining, gear off, leave gear on when not raining, sweat while climbing, take gear off, continue climbing, pouring rain, repeat.  Like a wilderness water torture.  It really started playing with my mind.  The next several miles were very slow.  With the rain comes mud and lots of it.  Tight single track played with my nerves as I plugged through with bear spray in one hand screaming at the sky and trying to decide if it was better to be wet from rain or from sweat.  Then it didn't matter.  Everything was wet again and very muddy.  I struggled down a long freshly graded (soft and muddy) road to a junction with a paved section of highway.  The map said food and shelter 2 miles off route.  All I could do was dream of getting warm and finding a place to stay out of the rain.  Not to be.  Motel was closed.  Ate at the local steakhouse/bar in my muddy spandex while I debated my next move.  Only option was to get the Holland Lake Lodge.  I was so cold and wet and wanted to crash so badly that the extra miles were worth it.  I was so glad I decided to push on!  It was like the Shire.  Peaceful, comfortable and lots of good food.  Christian did my laundry, lent me a hose to wash the bike and made me breakfast and sandwiches to take with me.  I will be back there for sure.


Day 7

Holland Lake seemed to temporarily heal me.  I felt so much better.  I took to long to get moving though.  I guess I was too comfortable.  Comfort is the enemy in this race I discovered.  Climbed up Richmond Peak, one of my favourite sections, and found Bruce from Iowa pushing through.  I was encouraging to see another rider as it made me feel I was still in a race and gave me an extra boost of urgency.  I chatted with him for a bit and then continued on walking several hours as the snow covered trails traversed what seemed like a 45 degree slope.  I lost the trail for a while and had to bushwhack with my bike to find the trail.  It was the first time I really felt lost.  Didn't enjoy that much, but the views were incredible!  The decent was awesome, past the loggers and down to Ovando.  I was feeling really strong actually.  It was a little late to be pushing to the town of Lincoln, and I was completely out of food, so Ovando it was for the night.  Great little town but no cell service or public phones, I really wanted to speak to my family.  Off to sleep early so I could be up and out at 4 am.

Day 8

Sometimes, I am my own worst enemy.  Got up at 4, packed up, reviewed my maps on the table and then went to pack the bike not realising that the door locks behind me.  I was locked out, staring at my maps through the window.  So much for the early start.  B and B owner doesn't live on sight.  Waited until about 530 until I went across the street to knock on doors to find the owner.  Lucky it was the first house I tried.  545 back on the road.
Another short day.  First pass was clear of snow.  That was encouraging.  Rather uneventful day except the knees were sore again.  Stopped in Lincoln and looked ahead on the map.. I did not want to push to Helena that night and I did not want to camp in between on the pass so I decided to enjoy Lincoln for a few hours and hang out with several riders that were collecting there.  I knew I was turning this into a tour and that was starting to eat at me a little.  Lincoln was a town full of great people.

Day 9

Actually got off to a nice early start.  Freezing cold but it felt good to be riding.  It was my goal to catch Michael Mel and Tyson who rode through Lincoln as I waited there.  I knew they would be camping and I maybe able to leave early enough to catch them if they got a late start.  Chasing someone was very motivating for me.  Flew down the paved highway into Helena, killed a Pizza Hut and kept on moving.  Hoping to make Basin, to get back on my 100 mile plus a day goal.  Made it to Park Lake campsite and had to make a choice,  push in the the dark through Lava mountain or suck out again and camp here.  I camped.  Glad I did.  I was offered a roast beef dinner from a family camping beside me!  Huge score for a hungry racer.  As it turns out Lava mountain was a beast.  I never would have made it over at night.  As well it turns out that Michael, Mel and Tyson pushed over a few hours before I did and got to Basin late only to discover that the restaurant was closed and no place to sleep.

Day 10 and 11 THE END (of the first chapter)

Woke up and got another early start.  It was nice to feel I was getting into a rhythm. Pushed over the beast that is Lava mountain and its down to Basin.  Restaurant was open.  Another big breakfast and then off to Butte.  Easy riding along an old railroad line and then the map shows several miles of FLAT PAVEMENT!  What a treat.  I was looking forward to that for a while.  Pavement was great, Wind was not.  I could barely stay on the bike.  Extremely strong headwind.  Cresting over on the interstate towards Butte I was literally blown into the ditch.  The ride down on the interstate shoulder between the guardrail and the right lane was very scary with the high gusty winds.  What was supposed to be a fun few miles was a huge challenge.  I made it to Butte ready to get my new brake pads at the Outdoorsman and ride on.  Turns out Outdoorsman is closed on Sundays.  Note to future riders, get to Butte before Sunday.  So I sat in a Quiznos across the street and called home.  Told Sharon that I needed this bike shop, that I needed some company and I was sad it was Fathers Day and I missed my kids.  I asked her to search the logs of a few past riders to see how much time I could make up on the last half of the route.  I needed to prove that 28 days was still doable.  It wasn't. Unless I turned into superman over night. I was at an emotional low.  She found Michael, Mel, and Tyson and they were in Butte!  I had caught them!  That was a bit of a pick me up.  I flew over to the hotel they were staying at and we arranged to have dinner.  I knew that if I booked a room it could be the end of my race but I hoped that being with the other racers would pick me up.  I had to wait for the bike shop anyways.    Dinner was good.  Sleep was good and as I prepared for the day, I knew.  Michael Mel and Tyson walked passed me in the lobby expecting me to ride out with them but I needed to go to the Outdoorsman.  And I knew.  Rob at the shop was great trying to convince me to keep moving, but I knew.  I was ready to stop.  I really didn't want the clock to stop, but I wanted to finish and even if I stayed I would have had to leave at 28 days and that wouldn't have done it.  Heartbreak.  Unsure of my knees, my lack of time to finish, my decreasing budget, my limited knowledge of my bike,  my failing spirit and the fact that I was in a town that was easy to get out of   meant it was time to pack it in.  I will be back to race again.

Friday, 21 December 2012

It's on!  Today is the day for submissions of Letters of Intent for the 2013 Tour Divide.  Here is my letter of intent submitted today!


Dear Tour Divide,

It has been a few months since we last spoke and we didn't leave on good terms.  I admit it.  You won.  I was weak and you beat me.  I don't want you to take this the wrong way so you need to know that this isn't an apology letter but a letter of pure vengence. Consider 2012 my "rope a dope".  I am about to crush you. I layed on the ropes just long enough to learn your ways, measure the rythym of your breath, and figure out your soul crushing motives. I am coming back to step on your head and grind you to a bloody pulp.  You will be sorry for how you treated me last year. 

But I still love you

All the best,

J.D. Pauls

Friday, 7 December 2012

Tour Divide - Day 4

Well I realised that keeping up with this blog takes a little work.  Good thing I kept a journal or no way I could have remembered much of this.  The journal itself was a challenge, finding time and effort to write in it and trying to keep it dry enough in the non stop rain for the first few days....

Day 4

Good night sleep. Up around 5, packed up and headed across the street for a big breakfast.  Started slow.  Noticed this was the first day my knees were really tender.  Started up a nice paved path on the climb up to Whitefish Divide.  What a treat compared to the Canadian side.  A little bit of me felt like this was cheating the path was so nice.  Great start to the day.  Pavement turned to gravel and up through some incredibly wild land.  Several avalanches to climb over with some downed trees.  I was moving quick and the descents let me pick up some good time time.  THE SUN WAS OUT!!!  I was in good spirits.  Hammered through some flat sections flew by Mike from DC with a wave and enjoyed every bit of what must have been a 1-2% negative grade. (think I paid for the hard pushing later in the day) Passed a few tour fans snapping pictures then off to Red Meadow Pass.  Made a right hand turn and the road straightened out up towards the pass.  I noticed a couple dark figures in the path about 100 metres ahead.  As I got closer I realised they were black bears.  As I looked down to set my camera up and lifted my head they were gone.  They wandered into the bush, but I wasn't sure where or which side of the path.  With no other options I decided to proceed past where they entered the trees.  Banging on my frame bag and shouting hoping they would take the hint and take off.  I guess he was just as curious of me as I was of it.  As I rode past the spot I though they were at I looked left and about 30 feet away was 2 big dark eyes staring at me.  We exchanged a brief look and a quick understanding that we were all good and each of us continued on our way.  Very cool!  And for a city boy mildly terrifying as well.

Caught up with 2 great guys from Wisconsin and we pushed over a snowy Red Meadow pass together.  Beautiful frozen lake at the top. This was the last happy thought I had that day.  After the decent and heading into Whitefish I hit a series of rollers. They were paved and wound around a magnificent Muskoka like lake, but I couldn't ride them.  So I walked and walked and walked.  My motivation was low my spirits were crushed and I felt defeated.  I had no idea how I was going to continue.  The road flattened out and I decided to ride forward a far as I could. I stayed on route past Whitefish towards Columbia Falls another 10 Miles.  Met up with a few guys who were heading out of Whitefish and were planning on crashing at the home of a guy who worked in the bike shop in Whitefish.  I was not able to keep up with them so I continued to town alone.  In a weird twist of fate, ahead in the road in the reflection of my headlight I saw black lump with reflective tape.  It was one of my rain booties that I left at camp on the first night!  Cool. 

I stumbled into town looking for food and a place to sleep.  The motel had a sign that said no vacancy but really meant "I'm sleeping don't bug me" since it appeared that half the rooms were empty. So across the street was an RV park.  That office too was closed, being as it was almost midnight so as I considered my options I heard a voice from a dark window above "may I help you?" I couldn't see him and wasn't sure where the voice was coming from, and I wasn't entirely sure it wasn't the voice of  God at this point.  I answered "oh yes, really need a place to sleep".  The manager came down and told be that he was up watching the security cameras and saw me.  Weird hobby but I am glad he was.
He let me stay in his tool shed which had heat and a T.V.  I grabbed a shower in the public washroom and he opened up his  store so I could grab dinner, the standard junk food, and went to sleep.  I felt like a king!   

End Day 4 in Columbia Falls.  380 Plus miles complete!

Tuesday, 18 September 2012

Tour DIvide - Day 3

 Video of Day 2 and 3 is on my YouTube channel "jdpaulstourdivide"

Waking up and still alive.  I must admit that I dreamt of cougars circling me in the night.  I think I was dreaming.  As I heard the few other racers that slept in the cabin starting to stir I started assessing the day and realised I actually got 5 hours of sleep the rain had stopped for now, and I would be able to pack up with out getting any more wet.  The tent worked great (Big Agnus one man) as  the vestibule, while tiny, was just big enough to store my pack and shoes and my ultralight sleeping pad was minimal but awesome.  The pad rolls up to about the size of a coke can.  It was about 5:30 am and the sun was breaking out.  I just wanted to get going so I just threw my wet gear together.  I thought about waiting for Chris to wake up and ride out with him again but once I was packed I couldn't wait and the reality was we all had our different goals and expectations for the day.  I needed to get out of the Flathead and I needed all the time I could to get to Eureka.  I think I was starting to find the spirit of this race.  I was starting to feel a sense of belonging now.

I rolled out about 6 and was relying on the tracks ahead to help me navigate.  Not sure what to expect. A couple hours in I ran into Adam repairing a flat.  Turns out he picked something up  from beside the cabin on the previous night.  I guess there were some roofing materials on the ground.  Prior to the race he had ridden in from Washington St. to Banff with a friend of his.  Crazy.

Today was brutal!  I arrived at Cabin Pass.  The snow seemed to go on forever and every time I thought I could see the top it continued on.  Like a mirage in the desert.  I had a hard time making sense of things.  Several false flats, even short descents seemed uphill.  When I finally got over the top the descent was snowy, wet and slippery initially.

I was running low on food when I was introduced to the wall on the single track extention.  Along the river and then a wall of mud that required lifting and pushing and climbing for what seemed to be a quarter mile.  Wore me out.  This lead me to Galton Pass.  This to me was the worst of the snow. the map told me to switch back right and it would be 0.3 miles the Galton Pass.  So believing this I ate the last half of my last energy bar and started the trek in the snow.  On the way up I noticed parallelling the racer footprints where Grizzly tracks.  So hungry and tired was I, that I didn't really care.  I couldn't see the bear so right now it wasn't a concern.  0.3 miles came and went.  1 mile came and went and I was still climbing.  At this point I did not know how far this was going to go on for so I was looking for sleeping options in the snow.  Do I build an igloo?  I was starting to go through all the episodes of Man vs. Wild for pointers.  So what I decided was to keep moving.  Moving kept me warm, moving meant I didn't have to camp with the grizzly and moving meant I may get out of this and find food.  Man I was tired.  It must have been 3-4 mile of pushing through deep snow before I noticed I was headed down the other side.  What a reward!  That was the best downhill by far.  A little dicey in places and later I was told of a few big crashes by other riders there.  It was a blast!  Racing down at 40 plus mph it took what felt like 10-15 minutes to go down what took my 4+ hours to go up. 

As I approached the highway and then headed for the border  I turned noticed an incredible contrast.  It was peaceful now.  Sunny.  I looked back to the hills of Mordor and couldn't believe I made it out of there! 

I passed through the border and passed on by a restaurant that I  noticed some other racers at.  I was hungry but didn't want to stop twice. 10 miles to Eureka and the first warm bed in days, warm food and shower.  I felt like a King!  I made it 270 miles and counting! 

Saturday, 15 September 2012

Tour Divide Failures

I am taking a break from my daily divide entries to remember my failings.  As I was finally watching the videos I took, reading through the journal that I had to force myself to write every night of the race, I noticed a bit of a pattern.  I started the failing before I started the race.  I have a terrible memory. 

A list of breakdowns.......equipment, mental and physical.....

1) Brakes - Unpacked the bike in Calgary and the Hydraulic line needed to be bled.  Didn't think much of it at the time but what I didn't know was the seal was busted and I had a small leak. May switch to mechanical for 2013.  Pads were wearing thin and I didn't bring extra.  They were not as common a part as I thought and 3 out of 3 bike shops I went to had none.

2) Derailleur Hanger - Bent.  The guys at the Outdoorsman did an incredible job trying to work on it in the absence of a spare.  Those guys are awesome.  Next year I make room for and hanger and brake pads.

2) Computer #1 - Still in Calgary, tried to mount a new cycle computer I bought in Hamilton but realised I left the mounting bracket back home.  Off to a good start. Went to Calgary Cycle to fix the brakes and buy a new computer.

3) Booties - I debated bringing these at all, and I guess the debate wasn't settled in my own mind because I got to Banff with only one.  I guess the other one was back with my computer bracket.  Was going to not worry about it but the weather report didn't look good so I went downtown Banff and bought a pair of neoprene booties and some rain pants.  The neoprene was not the best choice.  Hard to get on and they were heavy when wet.  Not taking them next year.  Better shoes and plastic bags will do.

4) Computer #2 - Something happened on that first snowy climb.  The magnet was in place, the display was working, but it wasn't reading.  Changed the battery but still nothing.  cleaned the snow build up, nothing.  I had to use my mantracking skills to follow other riders trails at some points. Once out of the snow, I tried again and couldn't get it to work.  Bought a $20 dollar unit in Big Fork (with a wire) and it worked awesome.

5) GPS - I had a GPS but didn't pre-load the route.  Used a Edge 605.  Tried but couldn't manage it.  Also had trouble with the battery life.  Left it on the first night in Elkford and battery died.  Had to charge it at a plaza in Sparwood for 4 hours.  With that being my only computer I decided to use it sparingly and kept it off most of the time.  I used it more for speed and altitude and to check distance on difficult stretches.

4) Gloves - Stopped to fuel up about 30-40 miles in on day one.  There was a break in the rain so I took of my gloves and set them down while I ate.  OOPS.  I guess I didn't pack them when I finished lunch.  That was the last I saw of them.  Had to buy several different types of dish gloves and various corner stores.  The big blue cleaning gloves worked out to be pretty good actually for the rainy cold parts.

5)Rain pants- these were a waste.  Too bulky and too hot.  They had full length zippers up the side for venting which was nice.  A few days in and they were torn and trashed. May have been from the on again off again ( which took a lot of time) and the packing and repacking, or just from the brutal conditions.  Won't take these again.

6) Booties Part 2 - Too much gear.  When packing up from camp day I left them in a plastic bag on a picnic table.  I realised they were missing much later in the day and was way to far tho think about getting them.  Day 4, as I was headed in to Columbia Falls in the dark, I noticed and reflection on the road ahead.  As I got closer I realised it was one of my booties.  From its condition I knew someone got good use out of it.  Next morning I ran into some racers at a gas station and headed of with them.  As they pulled ahead of me I noticed a map fell out of one of thier packs.  I yelled ahead and when I returned the map and told them about the bootie I found he told me he had my other one.  Sweet.

7) Knees - This was by far the biggest physical challenge.  By the end of day 4, about 370 miles in to the race I couldn't pedal.  I had to walk some prime and sought after pavement on my way to Whitefish.  I got some great advice from the riders I met at the "bootie exchange" about my seat position and that kept me in the race.  Only managed 30 miles on day 5 but I was riding! I found the snow on later days great for icing my knees!  With the pills, ice and better position they started felling better in later days.

8) Shoulder Pain - My lack of experience was the problem here.  The back pack was part of the problem I am sure, but the big problem was my riding position and my death grip.  The pain was at its worse end of day 2.  I tried stretching, lots of pills and changing positions on the bike.  Made for an uncomfortable ride.  I really wanted out of the Flathead so badly  that 3 days wasn't an option so I had to focus on the bigger goal and try to forget about the discomfort.

9) Butt Pain - This, I think is self-explanatory but I will expand.  I got some advice before I left because as a new rider I predicted this to be my biggest challage.  2 pairs of shorts and lots of chamois cream.  I made room in my gear for this!  The 2 shorts was awesome when needed. I found that several climbs the snow and fatigue made me walk a few hours a  day.  This turned out to be a great solution for my rear end as well.  The discomfort was unbearable at times but this walking break, though not intended for this purpose, gave my butt a much needed rest.

10) Fingers - Numb. I had a real hard time using the zippers on my gear.  The vibration, my death grip, the wet and the cold along with the assault from the rocks and holes took their toll.  It took several weeks after I left the race to gain feeing in some of my fingers.

11) Anger - The rain really played tricks. Putting gear on, taking it off, putting it on , taking it off.....this part was terrible.  The rain would stop and I would wait, and wait. Then once I decided to pack my gear away, it would start.  So I would wait, and wait, and wait. Once I decided it wasn't going to stop I would gear up and not 2 minutes later it would stop.  So I would just leave it on and then heat up and sweat.  If a racer yells in the forest does anyone hear him?? I screamed a lot. And getting to town when everything was closed and I was cold wet and hungry well.... I was angry.  However no matter how long and painful the day, I always found joy knowing I made it through and looked forward to the next day.

12) Confusion - It is hard to stay mentally focused.  I was saved a few times by locals and other racers when I when I had made a wrong turn.  A few of those mistakes were caused by exhaustion and lack of focus. Without my computers working they could have been long detours.  I locked myself out of my B&B in Ovando with my gear inside at 4 in the morning. I had to wait till about an hour and a half before I had the nerve to go across the street and start knocking on doors in town to find where the owner lived.  Ovandoites were awesome as a side note. I found myself at times in a trance like state.  Watching myself in some of my videos I realised why I was get such strange looks.

13) Lonliness - Took its toll on me.  A few days without  someone to chase or push you along was hard.  When I got into Butte and called my wife from the parking lot of the Outdoorsman (which was closed on Sundays, much to my shock and dissapointment) she told me other riders were in town.  I felt a warm rush like a kid on Christmas and made a direct line to their hotel for some company.


 
14) Pride - This hurt most of all.  Quitting was the most painful part by far.  The race became a part of me.  I had ultimately decided that I was way past my time budget. I couldn't finish in 28 days, it was looking more like 32 and I didn't have 32 days. I was running out of money, my hurting body had put me days behind and I guess ultimately, I wasn't ready.......



Wednesday, 12 September 2012

Video Tour Divide Day one - Part 2

Here you are. End of Day 1.  I ended up in Elkford.  As you can see the weather got really wet. http://youtu.be/fMRGjO5tUE4

REMEMBER  SEPTEMBER 26th  I am Screening:

Ride the Divide 6:30 http://vimeo.com/9654326

Reveal the Path 8:30 http://vimeo.com/37744449

You must check these out!